Exumas, We have signal.

The Exumas

The winds were stronger than forecast as we headed for Highbourne Cay (35nm) our first stop in the Exuma chain of islands. Part of our this leg was crossing the Yellow Banks, a shallow area, where we needed to watch for coral heads & zig zag to the anchorage. They were probably all well under us but it's hard to judge – we'll become more proficient as we go. We anchored in a lovely bay with 16 other boats. There was a lot of traffic to & from the marina at the southern end – tenders & larger motor yachts but we were secure. The water is very clear & we saw a shark wandering around the bottom. Many of these cays are privately owned so there are no small communities & you often need permission to land.

We travelled only 8nm to our next anchorage – Norman's Cay. We used the dinghy to travel back to SW Allen's Cay to see the iguanas & then toured with Brent & Deb around the other small cays & swam. Also snorkelled near the boat & saw purple coral & small colourful fish.

While at Norman's we dinghied into the harbour to view the plane wreck where some one had misjudged the air strip too far to the right. This Cay had once been under the unfriendly control of drug lord Carlos Lehder & think this may have been one of the drug courier planes. The whole island was known for drug running in the 1980's but is cleaned up now. We had a picnic lunch in the only shade around, collected sea dollars & waded in the warm water. Another snorkel in a new spot completed the afternoon – saw rays & some much larger fish.

Warderick Wells Cay (25nm) was our next destination where we picked up a mooring ball in a protected area known as the Exuma Cays Land & Sea Park. This 176 sq miles is completely protected from fishing, taking of conch, coral & shells. Land area is also protected with marked trails the only places to ramble. Rangers run the place & collect fees for hanging off the moorings – no anchoring allowed to protect the coral. On Saturday nights docktails are arranged for the visitors on the beach & we arrived on a Sat so were fortunate to meet other boaters to swap stories & hints. That evening we saw the endangered nocturnal hutias – a ground mammal much like a large rat with a short tail & snout. It was broad daylight at the docktails with lots of people so I'm thinking these mammals don't feel threatened at all – the ranger says they are increasing.

We are here for 3 days & snorkel a new spot each day (if we can find an area with slower current) & try to do a few trails as well. Colin & I have only one problem and that is trying to haul ourselves back up into the dinghy after each dive. We are both suffering bruised stomachs and rib cages – especially when turning over in bed – just a reminder of our age. We are trying to improve the technique – but it all comes down to lack of strength. (Aahh aging woes).

The forecast ahead is for North westerlies so we will stay here for a few more days until the weather settles for our trip to the next cay. The predicted bad weather did come despite only one of the forecasters predicting it – the others only predicting 15knot winds & small seas. There are a few web sites where boaters go to get future weather essential for planning moving from cay to cay, distances to go & future anchoring or marinas. Some swear by one source or you simply have to make an informed judgement after checking them all & discussing with others. We chose to stay after a lovely calm day (thinking we may have got it wrong) but we were right. Thunderstorms, lightening & very heavy rain came during the night & again early in the morning, Enough rain to ¼ fill the dinghy both times. We bailed some of it out into a large large esky(ice cooler) & I did a load of washing Couldn't let all that fresh water go to waste – you have to pay for water in the Bahamas. One of the boaters recorded wind gusts of up to 37 knots sustained for 15 mins. Many boats were looking for moorings yesterday to secure to before the storm – we felt safe with the 22 other boats moored here.

Today we dinghied over to another Gold Looper ( 'Andante' – Tom & Sue Hamman) who arrived last night. They spend 6 months every year here in the Bahamas so were able to give us some hints.

Because internet is very weak & erratic here we have not been able to add to the blog – hence the large time gap between news & photos. It may improve after tomorrow as we move south.