Staniel Cays – Exumas
We travelled 21 nm from Warderick Wells
to what is our last stop in the Exuma chain - we are running out of
time to go further south. After an early morning swim to free one of
the ropes that had wrapped itself around the mooring ball we arrived
& tied up at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club marina. There was no
protection from the surge & westerlies & although we didn't
bounce against the docks because we were hanging away from the dock
we were rolled the whole day there despite a 90ft+ boat tied up
outside of us on the T dock – there was still no protection. There
were many sharks at the shallow docks & under our boats that hung
around for feeding & filleting of any fish catches. Many people
swim with them – but there are warnings. We walked into town to The
Blue Store & Pink Store (grocery shops) & bought minimal
supplies & bread at the Yellow house.. That evening after dinner
we went into the bar on the dock for a bit of local company, to
support the economy & a game of pool.
Next morning we moved from the docks
after a most uncomfortable, rolly night into an anchorage close by (
Big Majors) with many other boats. The 2 major tourist attractions at
Staniel Cay are the 'swimming pigs' and the Thunderball Grotto. We
dinghied over with Deb & Brent to the beach nearby where the pigs
are. Tourist boats arrive & most people have food scraps for them
– mid morning & mid afternoon. There were about 10 pigs;
brindle & pink & a piglet – much bigger than I had
envisaged. They wait & watch the dinghies arrive & if they
see a bag or food in your hand head straight towards you – usually
running. They also climb partially into the boat if they can & if
yours isn't a rubber ducky able to be punctured. Deb got out with a
bag of food & offered some & they came running. One nipped
her bum, she yelled for help (where were the guys you may ask?) &
I said throw the bag to me whereupon the pigs (4 of them) headed for
me. I quickly threw the bag to one of the guys to divert the pigs but
they were too fast & one of them bit me on the stomach. The
secret is to hold your hands in front of you in an upward position
showing there was nothing to offer – I hadn't been quick enough. I
had my swimming costume on so I didn't see the result until I got
home – but I knew it had been a firm bite. It turned into such a
huge black bruise that I got Colin to take a photo - no bleeding, no
broken skin just a colossal souvenir. But as Deb said “you took one
for the team”.
In the afternoon we dinghied to
Thunderball Grotto – an underground cave that comes up in the
centre of the island as a sink hole (tomo) where the sunlight pours
in. It is full of a variety of fish & the sunlight shafts
illuminate everything. This is where Sean Connery as James Bond
filmed the scene in Thunderball where they drop into the grotto.
There are 3 swim in entrances & you can also drop/jump in from
the top. We spent the evening docktails time on the beach - an area
set up by boaters (Pirates Beach) with tables benches & a rag tag
collection of memorabilia from passing boats. It was our final time
with Deb & Brent because we would be heading out to the
Eleutheras early next morning to start heading north. We had
thoroughly enjoyed their company since meeting at The Biminis.
Decisions come easier & ideas & fun times multiply if you
are with a buddy boat.
Taking advantage of a good weather
window we crossed the Exuma Sound (North Atlantic) in minimal chop &
very light wind. We left Big Majors at 6.15am (there were 32 boats
anchored there) and it was apt that our bearing on heading out was
007 degrees. We did 55 nm to reach Eleuthera & anchored in Rock
Sound just after midday. We have now passed the 6000 nm mark on our
trip. This is a large Sound with great protection where we will
probably stay for the easterlies to ease up.
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