To Nassau
We left early with a 3ft chop & 15
– 18 knots of wind which steadily dropped away. The rest of the
journey was in calm waters but we were surrounded by thunderstorms
with some heavy rain & saw a water spout. The 11 hour trip over
the Great Bahama Bank was about 70 miles & we were in water of
less than 15 feet for most of the way with a clear view to the bottom
which was disconcerting initially – seeing the rocks below until
you became used to it. A few miles later we crossed the Tongue of
the Ocean where the depth dropped to over 1069ft in under a mile.
Some areas are deep as 5000 – 6000 ft. This runs almost north south
between the large island of Andros & the smaller chains. It is a
hugely favoured game fishing area.
After 89 nm we tied up at a closed (but
being renovated) marina (Berry Island Club marina) with no facilities
but they took our money & we enjoyed a quiet, calm & flat
water night at Fraser's Hog Cay.
We had beautiful water for the last
part of our crossing to Nassau. Brent trolled some lures & caught
a black fin tuna. We arrived in Nassau harbour at midday which is
dominated by cruise ships – only 2 this day but we could see
docking for 5 – also many 100ft +cruising yachts, fishing boats,
mail boats & freight boats. We refuelled at Hurricane Hole marina
with some of the cheapest fuel in the Bahamas ($3.21) & then
crossed over to our marina at Nassau Harbour Club Marina. This was
reasonably priced @ $1.75 per foot & good facilities including a
pool although everything looked a bit run down & in need of
maintenance as many of them do.
There was a great shopping centre right
across the road including Solomon's Fresh Market where things were
pricey but you could get all that you wanted. We were able to get a
sim card for our second phone that will also act as a hot spot for
the computer – so we are not out of touch & more importantly we
can check on weather forecasts for cruising in the Bahamas.
We walked down to the central bustling
area of the fish markets & straw markets called Potter's Cay.
This is a hive of activity as boats sell their catches of fish &
conch to restaurants & the public. Many little shack eateries &
groups of men playing dominoes line the walk way. Here all boats
arrive with cargo for delivery or shipment & lines of a variety
of trucks & vans queue to await pick up. We had lunch down here
at Twin Brothers Seafood & Steak House one of the more salubrious
eating places among the more dodgy looking affairs. Apparently it has
been on Top Chef, a CBS programme & The New York Times. It wasn't
fancy just very Bahamian & I tried my 3rd conch dish
– a conch salad. I still can't seem to get a taste of the conch –
I think it just takes the flavour of what ever it's cooked in &
it's very rubbery unless cracked
(beaten to tenderise it). A great morning spent rubbing
shoulders with the locals. We dined on Brent's black fin tuna that
night.
Next day the wind was still blustery so
we decided to stay another day as the following day promises to be
perfect (heard that before !) for our next leg to the Exumas. We
cycled to Atlantis across the Paradise bridge to Paradise Island,
which is huge elaborate peach coloured Disney looking castle with a
Las Vegas look. There are lofty hotel towers, a huge water park,
casino, glitzy shops, over 40 restaurants/bars/lounges and an
aquarium. The grounds are all beautifully planted with a waterscape
as part of the grounds, a beach & small canals for snorkelling –
all man made. The next part of our trip will be in great contrast to
this day. To Nassau
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