Tuesday, 10 May 2016

James Bond and Man eating pigs


Staniel Cays – Exumas

We travelled 21 nm from Warderick Wells to what is our last stop in the Exuma chain - we are running out of time to go further south. After an early morning swim to free one of the ropes that had wrapped itself around the mooring ball we arrived & tied up at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club marina. There was no protection from the surge & westerlies & although we didn't bounce against the docks because we were hanging away from the dock we were rolled the whole day there despite a 90ft+ boat tied up outside of us on the T dock – there was still no protection. There were many sharks at the shallow docks & under our boats that hung around for feeding & filleting of any fish catches. Many people swim with them – but there are warnings. We walked into town to The Blue Store & Pink Store (grocery shops) & bought minimal supplies & bread at the Yellow house.. That evening after dinner we went into the bar on the dock for a bit of local company, to support the economy & a game of pool.

Next morning we moved from the docks after a most uncomfortable, rolly night into an anchorage close by ( Big Majors) with many other boats. The 2 major tourist attractions at Staniel Cay are the 'swimming pigs' and the Thunderball Grotto. We dinghied over with Deb & Brent to the beach nearby where the pigs are. Tourist boats arrive & most people have food scraps for them – mid morning & mid afternoon. There were about 10 pigs; brindle & pink & a piglet – much bigger than I had envisaged. They wait & watch the dinghies arrive & if they see a bag or food in your hand head straight towards you – usually running. They also climb partially into the boat if they can & if yours isn't a rubber ducky able to be punctured. Deb got out with a bag of food & offered some & they came running. One nipped her bum, she yelled for help (where were the guys you may ask?) & I said throw the bag to me whereupon the pigs (4 of them) headed for me. I quickly threw the bag to one of the guys to divert the pigs but they were too fast & one of them bit me on the stomach. The secret is to hold your hands in front of you in an upward position showing there was nothing to offer – I hadn't been quick enough. I had my swimming costume on so I didn't see the result until I got home – but I knew it had been a firm bite. It turned into such a huge black bruise that I got Colin to take a photo - no bleeding, no broken skin just a colossal souvenir. But as Deb said “you took one for the team”.

In the afternoon we dinghied to Thunderball Grotto – an underground cave that comes up in the centre of the island as a sink hole (tomo) where the sunlight pours in. It is full of a variety of fish & the sunlight shafts illuminate everything. This is where Sean Connery as James Bond filmed the scene in Thunderball where they drop into the grotto. There are 3 swim in entrances & you can also drop/jump in from the top. We spent the evening docktails time on the beach - an area set up by boaters (Pirates Beach) with tables benches & a rag tag collection of memorabilia from passing boats. It was our final time with Deb & Brent because we would be heading out to the Eleutheras early next morning to start heading north. We had thoroughly enjoyed their company since meeting at The Biminis. Decisions come easier & ideas & fun times multiply if you are with a buddy boat.

Taking advantage of a good weather window we crossed the Exuma Sound (North Atlantic) in minimal chop & very light wind. We left Big Majors at 6.15am (there were 32 boats anchored there) and it was apt that our bearing on heading out was 007 degrees. We did 55 nm to reach Eleuthera & anchored in Rock Sound just after midday. We have now passed the 6000 nm mark on our trip. This is a large Sound with great protection where we will probably stay for the easterlies to ease up.


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