Eleuthera
Eleuthera is not a chain of cays or
islands like the Exumas but one long thin island of 90 miles &
narrow; a little more than 3 miles wide at its widest and as thin as
50 mtres at its narrowest point It has a few small islands at the
northern end with Dunmore Town on Harbour Is which is a hideaway for
celebrities & the wealthy.
We reached Rock Sound after an easy
trip across and anchored there for 2 days in flat, quiet, glassy
water. We went ashore to feed the fish at the Ocean Hole in a park
just outside the town which is connected by tunnels to the sea. Many
ocean fish come quickly to feed. I'll always remember this place for
the barking dogs at night & crowing roosters in the early
morning.
One of our brochures mentioned a garden
of sea anemones that dazzled even Jacques Cousteau's biologists. It
can be reached easily from shore at a tiny offshore island. We were
disappointed and think hurricanes & strong seas have wrecked the
garden although we could see evidence of a good concentration of
anemones on the western side. The brochure was dated 2010 – things
change. However as always the swim was wonderful – all of the
waters are clear and warm in the Bahamas – one just falls in.
We stopped to view 'The Glass Window'.
This is a now bridged breach at the island's narrowest part. On the
ocean side (Atlantic – east) where the reef is not continuous, the
waves gnawed at this weak point & broke the island's natural
bridge in two. In 1991 the man made bridge over the crevasse was
knocked 7 feet to the west by a rogue wave. It has since been
repaired & you can easily see the force of the waves still
pounding away. From the sea the Glass Window forms a kaleidoscope
peephole to look from west to east with deep azure blue on the
Atlantic & the turquoise of the Bahamian Sound. We left the main
part of Northern Eleuthera via Current Cut. This had to be timed
close to high tide at slack water as there was a strong current of 3
to 4 knots, with strong whirlpools which moved the boat around quite
strongly, fortunately the sea was calm and an easy exit against the
strong current was no problem, thanks to Cummins power.
Our last anchorage on Eleuthera was in
an almost enclosed bay called Royal Island where we waited out the
night in calm waters with 5 other boats to do the crossing in the
morning to The Abacos.
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